Sam in Japan


Sumo is awesome.

I love the stadium

…I love the build-up rituals…

…and of course – though they’re not easy to photograph! – I love watching the bouts.

See the black-clad umpires all around the ring? They’re called in whenever it’s hard to decide the winner. Laura and I have made a hard decision too.

Japan is wonderful in all sorts of ways, but we’ve now admitted to ourselves that for us it’s never going to be home. We’ve had a lot of fun imagining it could be, though. And we’re going to do our damnedest to squeeze everything we can out of the rest of our time here. 😀

In Tokyo everyone stays late at the office, even Darth Vader.

Hello Kitty London Olympics kimchi. It’s delicious.

I’m not quite sure what’s going on here…

…But I suspect I would probably make the same face.

Long ago (the story goes), when English map-makers reached the edges of known territory they wrote “here be dragons.” When I met these three guys down by the Sumida River last weekend I asked them what they were doing there…

One strongly implied it was none of my business:

One just belched:

This one didn’t seem to know:

On Saturday I got to the end of War and Peace.

If you need confirmation from me, take it: its reputation as one of the best books ever written is well deserved. As well as the empathic and imaginative genius of its author, and the boldness with which he stated its theme and stuck to it, I was particularly astonished by how easy Tolstoy made this book to read. It’s a page-turner – and there isn’t a chapter in it that’s longer than five. You’re sucked in before you know it and the only reason to pause is if your eyes or arms get tired.

I’m serious: War and Peace is fast. As long as you don’t include all the years of telling myself I’d get around to it, the time it took me to read was negligible. If you’re putting it off too, stop. War and Peace is one of the greatest reading experiences of my entire life. I would recommend it to everybody.

Since I first got here my tastes in Japanglish have developed a bit. I still enjoy it when it’s direct and to the point

…but I’ve also learned to appreciate its tendency towards convolutedness

…its capacity for strange and delicate beauty

…and, sometimes, its sense of mystery.

 

This week on TBM: the best piece of writing about writing that I’ve read in a very long time, and kappa.

Now I’ve got an inkling why everyone went so blossom crazy here last week.

In its way Japan can be as beautiful in the rain, of course. You get shades of green here I’ve never seen anywhere else.

But, just like when it happens in the UK, sometimes there’s nothing else you can do but load up on good stuff to read and wait it out.

Left and centre are by someone whose work I’m rapidly becoming obsessed with: Shigeru Mizuki. On the right is the gorgeous Japanese edition of Uzumaki, by Junji Ito, which I recommended on TBM here.

It’s cherry blossom season here in Japan.

I’ve been having my first experiences of hanami.

The blossoms themselves are pretty spectacular. But I’m more impressed by the effect they seem to have.

It’s like a national party. Parks are stuffed full of people picnicking and boozing. Not just young people either: I keep seeing otherwise quite conventional-looking grown-ups – old folks, too – all grinning, giggling, playing silly b&ggers and occasionally falling over and passing out.

It’s catching. 😀

 

If you’re interested in suggestions about what to read next, I’ve just updated my LibraryThing review page with all my TBM book recommendations from the last six months or so – including the inspiration and image source for this

…namely The Drifting Classroom by Kazuo Umezu. 😀

Click here for A Tale of Two T-Shirts: Shirt The Second.

London has pigeons. Tokyo has crows.

They seem supremely relaxed. Unlike British crows, whose asthmatic GRAAK! makes them sound like bad tempered old men, Japanese crows make a sound like a posh English person casually referring to the author of Brideshead Revisited: WAUGH, they say. WAUGH.

I’ve heard people here say they bring bad luck. One young woman who lives near Yoyogi Park, where I took the first pic above, told me she lives in fear that one day a crow will peck her eyes out. Famous carrion eaters that they are, it’s easy to speculate that the crows’ prevalence here is a reflection of Japan’s impressively horrifying history of death, destruction and disaster, both man-made and natural.

I’ve only been watching the crows here for three seasons now, but I have a different theory…

I think they watch over Japan – and their intelligence, stylishness and resilience are reflections of their kingdom.

This week on Trapped By Monsters – now, apparently, one of Tesco Magazine’s Top 10 Kids’ Book Blogs – your fearless correspondent uncovers an elaborate hoax on humans by Tokyo’s monster population.

« Previous PageNext Page »